Lauzun pattern drafting manual 1945 (French)

Great little book I've found at a junk fair ages ago. Here are the first pages about constructing a draft that'll be the basic pattern for all sleeveless tops and dresses. Very easy to follow and great for making dresses that actually fit your own measurements.


















June 2011 Native American Indian, Galliano&McQueen patterns

Clothes: Long time coveted: The jumpsuit. I've had wanted one for centuries. It's a great and versatile piece to have for continental summers (comes right on time as the weather forecast gives a 34°C in Paris next Monday!). The only reason it occured to me only now is because first, there's no way I could have worn one in Scotland. In 8 years, we've had ONE truly warm day. And second, I had to wait for the flipping trend to come round. But here's the beauty (from Cache-Cache, 35€) : I also recently got caught in the Native American Indian trend (though I've had a crush on NAI chokers and a pair of feather earrings way before it came on the market so the coincidence is one reason to be happy) : I plan to make my own printed T-shirt out of this picture using the turpentine/soap transfer technique: Free Instructions available here   Random girl, gorgeous bag Ralph Lauren, a small fortune but each bag is unique Trend translated (more on the Aztec side of it): Cotton scarf I got at Pimkie on sale today: This one is made in India and I've always thought no one does more beautiful scarves than Indians. The dyes and patterns are always amazing. Gone forever, sadly. Disappeared from Pimkie's website and missing in action in the shop (though it was crammed, I didn't look that hard either). I'm not bothered, it should be pretty easy to make one. New Look Accessories: Yeah, I know, it comes from TopEvil but I must say it's quite cute and reminds me of vintage leather hat boxes. Fossil leather bag Obsessed with: Red shoes Ellos Scanddy Both inspired by my sister who used to wear them in the mid 70's and Perrault's strange tale "Little Red Riding Hood" (the Ellos boots are the exact mental picture I get when I think of Red riding hood)/Chanel 5 commercial by Luc Besson. Don't be fooled, in the original tale, she DOES get eaten by the wolf at the end. Amanda Seyfried Clogs are some of the most hiddeous shoes (I'm not even mentioning about the trend we've been churned out last year with high heels and open toe). Despite their ugliness, they're comfortable and easy going for strolling the pavement on vacation. Tibetan boots Fabrics, the weirdest the best! Big round spectacles frames. Please, please enough of rectangles! People: Lee Miller by Man Ray Nastassja Kinski Romy Schneider Austrian born but perfectly in tune with beautiful Parisian 50's style Little Edie Beale (Edith Bouvier) I can't believe I had never heard of this extraordinary woman until just a few weeks ago. So I wasn't the only kook to wear jumpers as headscarf (or cardigans as skirts) or turbans (at the time my mother knicknamed me "Simone" in reference to Simone de Beauvoir)! There's something so endearing about her, such a beauty and charisma sprinkled with tragedy. Super stylish KotCheshirskiy on www.ravelry.com Aldous Huxley, "Brand New World revisited" is one of the best books I've read and still up-to-date (and very likely prophetic) nowadays. Early John Lennon Connie Nielsen,  the 45 yo stunner. I loved her performance in "One hour photo" and "Gladiator" Joan of Arc (Jean Seberg), queen of the Minimalists Natalia Vodianova or Joan as the little shepperd from Domrémy Vivienne Westwood, I've heard about her but know so little about this woman (shame on me). When I'm 64 I either want to be Vivienne Westwood or Gina Lollobrigida as the Blue Fairy in Pinocchio. Deco: The palette sofa The oversized black&white portrait DIY: Phildar knitbook #43 Shawl from russian magazine zhurnal mod # 483

Cape (another version) Free pattern available here



John Galliano jacket Free pattern available here

Alexander McQueen shirt Free pattern available here Ali McGraw dress

Biba D - 2

The new website has just been launched with a sneak peek of the forthcoming collection:

http://www.mybiba.com/



It's a bit too soon to have an honest opinion but I'll have to be a bit French on that one. My first impression is that the price range is much higher than what was announced (£60 for a ring, £290 for a military coat? Unless it's part of their limited collection, it'll be a pass for me I'm afraid).

I really really don't like this girl called Daisy Lowe (no idea who she is, don't care either -ah apparently a model, another daughter of Such and Such, ooooh everything I so like...not-). Very little to do with the original Biba girl envisioned by Barbara Hulanicki

 The original Biba Girl: "very pretty, young, upturned nose, rosy cheeks, asparagus legs, tiny feet, square-shouldered, flat-chested, long swanlike neck, perfect oval face, heavy lids, long spiky lashes" From A to Biba Chapter 6



Daisy Lowe...cute but wth?

Even transposed to the 21st Century, I don't see where she got labelled -as I've read somewhere- a it girl or is serious British icon material in any manner.

I completely fail to see the appeal, sorry...

However I must say that the dedicated website is visually stunning and they seem to have made heavy use of the Biba logo on the patterns. So now, roll on Thursday...



Old Biba shoot, never seen this one before!

I also just found out Barbara Hulanicki's got a YT channel with many interesting videos particularly the ones from after screening Q&A sessions:

http://www.youtube.com/barbarahulanicki

All pics from
mybiba.com except Biba Girl from http://barbarahulanicki.com/ and Daisy Lowe pic from elle.fr


Biba D - 3

No need to say I'm very eager to find out what they've come up with the brand's umpteenth revival...

Here's House of Fraser's latest visual for Biba that quite captures a certain atmosphere already!



Copyright House of Fraser

www.houseoffraser.co.uk on 09th September 2010

Just thinking how easy and fun it was to stop by at House of Fraser's in Glasgow (extraordinarily nice staff) makes my heart sink and wished Biba had arrived 2 years ago. But oh good news, international delivery is now available but bad news, I have absolutely no money dedicated for shopping...

As it seems they won't be there for long, here's the link to a few short videos of Barbara Hulanicki and Twiggy Lawson chatting about Biba for BBC British Style Genius documentary series (that I unfortunately missed):

http://www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/content/21800.shtml

Only one left thing to say, I terribly terribly miss
 
 

and


Topshop monstrosity gallery September 2010 + special guest

That's it, I've officially lost my faith in Topshop after raving about it for so many years. Not that it'll make any difference in the world. I don't know exactly what's going on but you can feel something is going wrong just by browsing their website (I'll spare the shoe and accessories sections that are still fairly cool).

The catching visuals you receive in their updates don't really transpose to the actual pages. Worse, more than once the cool clothes you see in them are never available. So why bother? I'm tired of constantly being cheated and plunged into fashion depression when my eyes have to bear that sort of clothes (and to top it up outrageously expensive) page after page:



Leaf skull (?) Just because 'skulls' are sort of trendy doesn't mean you can get away with this fashion offense



Labelled 'Oversized boyfriend'. Yeah that must be irony. Would your boyfriend honestly wear this? I still wonder why they had the urge to call this 'boyfriend', 3 quarter sleeves and dropped shoulders? Give me a break...



A dress my 73 yo mum would love!



Far-fetched vintage, 100% Polypooh, price conversely proportional



Orange and brown are some of my favourite colours, not in that order, even less in this weird tye-and-dye lame attempt



Another random splash of colours, I agree some people may like this but I just get rashes by looking at it

Special Guest: KTZ whom I spoke about a few months ago. Still depressing, still incredibly HIDDEOUS


Ok sit tight for this one. The shoe description reads '100% sinthetic leather' (spot the spelling mistake) This has to be the worst made shoe ever, you don't even need to zoom in the picture to figure this out.
Price: £ 364 wtf? We have some serious piss-taker here, trust me



Not only to mention the haircut, the model and the way she poses. Maybe there's something I don't get about that brand... I don't want to either, mind you



This looks like something out of Etsy-gone-wrong (as regularly featured on the fantastic Regretsy website) (
www.regretsy.com)

I rest my case...

All available @
www.kokontozai.co.uk

Furniture in Films: The New Avengers 'Sleeper'

I've meant to do this for a long time because I love movie sets as much as props, wigs and falballas :)

Despite I'm more an Avengers aficionada (Think Emma Peel here, how fascinating in 'A touch of brimstone'), some of the New Avengers episodes are worth the watch. 'Sleeper' (written by genius Brian Clemens) reveals a great insight of Gambit's and Purdey's flats while London plummets into deep-sleep.

Team Purdey:



White and gold
bed frame, round (lacey?) bedlight, big flowers wallpaper, beads curtain



Bamboo cane nightstand and sleek ivory white phone



Purdey's open kitchen: White and purple cupboard and matching curtains, bamboo cane chairs and table



The sleek white phone



Moving left to the living-room side (and another set of beads curtains), lilac walls, matching piano and sofa

Team Gambit:

Masculine and streamlined, here's Gambit's bachelor's pad!



Dark grey walls with a few touches of colours, transparent smoked glass table, leather and metal chairs, spotlights, silver Buddha head



Dark grey brick wall and white work top, mushroom ceiling lamp



Gambit's bedroom: Faux fur plaid, weapons, graphic onion canvas, magical stereo combo and burnt orange wall



Guest room: Apple green rules! Big green round knob, black, green and white forest canvas, white and green walls

Director: Graeme Clifford
Screenwriter: Brian Clemens
Set dresser: Simon Wakefield

The New Avengers is available on DVD copyright Optimum Home Entertainment

Fashion in Films: The Bear and the Doll (1970)

 Shot in 1969, this movie captures the essence of the transition from the 60's to the 70's. I can't see much class difference between the two main protagonists Felicia (Brigitte Bardot) and Gaspard (sublissime Jean-Pierre Cassel -who once dated Françoise Dorléac-) despite they respectively own a Rolls Royce and a 2CV. However they do waltz in very very different worlds. Gaspard is the king of Geeks (think pumpkin lambswool jumper and big square spectacles) living in the furthest corner of Paris suburbs while mischievous Felicia struts about in sexy outfits and lavish-minimalist flat somewhere probably near Paris tube station Boulainvilliers.

The plot is not one of the brightest but there's a certain delight to watch Bardot at the peek of her beauty (Timeline: She was 35), 60's cars/Paris (pay attention to the Dior boutique) and an hilarious game of cats and mice chase.



Funny how the phone and shades shapes are mirroring. I'm totally drooling over that look





Two shots of the pink leather (or 'skaï'?) hat with matching coat (and thigh boots)



Parties, shopping and beauty parlours, the 3 pillars of Felicia's life



The spectacles version of the square shades (in faded pink)



Black cape and gold chain fastening, black floppy hat, very Gunther Sachs period



Geeky Gaspard and Diored up Felicia (evening dress by Dior, created by Marc Bohan)



French style morning coffee bowl and sauerkraut hairdo



Who said 'no tartan mini-skirts after 35' again?



The Gavroche hat



Granny pants looking good. The credit likely goes to her amazing body!



The Dior dress accessorized with randomly picked-up real-life daisies

Director: Michel Deville
Costume designer: Gitt Magrini
Furniture: Knoll International (oh that 60's feeling!)


 
 The Knoll 'Tulip'

The Bear and the Doll is available on DVD copyright Paramount Home Entertainment

Little Obsessions August 2010

Red parachute-silk jacket:



Jacket by Lacoste (chav'/ned's choice of brands in France -Burberry's knows this evil too in UK-) featured in last In Style issue but nowhere to be found -yet?-. If I can ever afford it, I hope the brand logo is off the way.

Frye Campus st. Horse 15 boots:

Last week I thought it'd be high time I invested in some serious quality boots (part of the 'buy less but better' plan). Just a couple of days ago when I finally made up my mind but waited for the money to come in, these beauties were £130. Could someone explain to me why they've inexplicably jumped to £290 today? Way way out of my budget now.
:( Roll on Christmas...





Very Apollonia von Ravenstein by Arthur Elgort (though I'm unable to find the inspirational picture at the present time), here it is!


1970

I have no clue if she's actually wearing Fryes...




Military coat:

All time favourite... My beloved Primark coat showing signs of wear, here's the nicest replacement I've found so far -at Pimkie's- the brand French birds love to hate:




55% wool, sleek cut, high collar, jersey in-sleeves, low-waist belt, almost a perfection (a shame it's not long enough) 59.95 €

Asymmetrical:

About a year ago, I found out that asymmetry was a thing for me. Mysteries of life...




All Saints on ASOS £65



Topshop (see, no harsh feelings) £35 The mix is not a happy one (cotton, acrylic, polypooh). Reminds me of a an old Phildar (a French wool manufacturer) knit pattern recently added to my 'must knit' list:



Nice Neapolitan slice of colours. Knitting is not so terribly time consuming (about a fortnight for a jumper) but requires a lot of focus and patience.

Indian beads necklace/choker:

I was watching "The Brood" (David Cronenberg's) last night when I spotted this beautiful choker worn by Nuala Fitzgerald. I love this sort of statement necklaces à la Frida Kahlo, massive and obvious.


 

I know very little about Native American Indians but it is likely to relate to Cherokees. If I remember well, there must have been a brief trend around the mid 90's. Here's Vanessa Paradis in October 1994 wearing a similar style:



Belt cuff/wraparound bracelet:

I still haven't got over Calvin Klein's leather wraparound watches from nearly a decade ago (or Ridley Scott's Gladiator for that matter). Using thin leather belts as cuffs has been as natural as putting the coffee machine on in the morning. Does wonder for skinny wrists like mine.




CC Skye on ASOS £105


ASOS £8

In the same spirit...


Topshop £14


ASOS £12

One thing leading to another, I just thought that Lucilla (Connie Nielsen) in 'Gladiator' definitely deserves a place for the next 'Fashion in Films' entry!


Topshop monstrosity gallery August 2010

Ah sadly...this may be the end of the TMG (at last)! I must say I was slightly disappointed in Topshop for failing to provide some hilarious fashion fuckery this month. I'll have to think of another brand to target with my spiteful bow and arrows for the season coming. Nonetheless I did spot a few interesting cases of fashion crimes...



Aztec anything, hang me up. This belongs to early 90's Conforama (a famous French furniture shop) settee you'd find in some obscure Communist suburban flats (that was a bit nasty, I apologize).


+



Way past the selling date, Topshop, please wake up and stop the fashion-slaughter once for all



Oh no, not another "who wants to look like they're wearing Tena pants?" We already told you that Menopausia's not your niche.



Labelled '70's stirrups'. As far as I know, these are called a 'fuseau' (French name for ski pants) and they're from the 60's. I must say I used to wear my mum's in the mid 80's, mmmh. Tapered anything, hang me up.

And the first prize pièce de résistance goes to:



Spot the mistake... And I'm not talking about the half-diagonal detail at the calves here.