It seems that Topshop still hangs on the 80's vibe! I don't know who they are fooling! Here's a fresh new bunch straight from the TMO (Topshop Monstrosity Oven):









Would you wear that? Exactly...

As much as the 80's were an eyesore fashion-wise, there also were 'not so bad' things (Madonna in 'Desperately Seeking Susan' is a good example). I still don't understand how Topshop figured out to dig all the most horrendous design/patterns of the era. They're horribly expensive too! If a brand feels compelled to go back in time, fair enough but at least they could make the creative effort to bring back the good parts. I'm under the impression that this 80's craze was born after Agyness Deyn who's probably the most overrated model ever. Just quotes in the like of 'when I was 17, I had a skinhead' from a woman born in 1983 like it was some sort of avant-garde fashion statement really makes me cringe. Here's the crime perpetrator in action:

If you're like me a huge fan of 'Jackie Brown', here's another kitschogem featuring extravagant and powerful Pam Grier. Coffy is the sort of films you'd expect to be found in the £1 DVD bin though it deserves a view at least for the early 70s fashion in full bloom. The plot is weak though Pam Grier 'nurse by day and avenging angel by night' magnificently supports her role. Drugs in the early 70's in America is depicted as a serious problem. People lead to use drugs to bear lives far from being decent (that's more or less the message of the drug head gangster at the end). So the film has some interesting food for thought and social apspects. But what about fashion? Afros, collars, glasses and trousers are as big as they can be...



Coffy trying to trick a pusher, dressed as a prostitute/junkie. Behind her, a crochet bag (more further)



Check the tapestry in the background, some uglish 70's pattern! This is not Coffy on this one but a young woman at a callgirls pad. I love the choker necklace and the afro of course.



Callgirls pads must have been the prehistory of today's call centres (thouhg obviously they don't 'sell' the same thing!). The headset is amazingly modern. I like the little gold heart pendant, the green ostrich feather, the double bangles and her eyes are just awesome.



Coffy arrived at the callgirls' wearing this massive shells and gold necklace. I don't like too much the dress though it has some interesting split-open sleeves.



Oh my dog... Pure typical highwaisted bellbottom, cinched waist and probably platform boots under. The ad message from Coca Cola makes me wonder if this was put on purpose or not ('it's the real thing. Coke').



The pusher. This is some serious pimp costume. Looks like a jumpsuit with a cape held by a golden chain. The hat has pheasant's feathers on it and the glasses are making a big statement.



And here is Coffy's crochet bag. This is by far my favourite prop...

Coffy is available on DVD copyright American International Pictures and MGM home entertainment

As I have plenty of time at the moment, I've decided to look after my 'Mood' notebook again (see my
my older post on the subject).

I'm not very sensitive to trends. I just don't understand the concept of it. The only time they are useful is when they give the possibility to buy a particular style or item you've had in mind for a while and that was not available (ie polka dots!). But buying a trend for the sake of it, I don't get it.

When I started the Mood notebook, I also used to write down the official trends along with what I was spotting in the streets of Glasgow. I've found no correlation between the countries either. One more time a particular French website I won't name has a list of trends that are a least a year behind the UK. On top of that, if you observe them year after year, you'll notice that nothing really changes. It's the same trends labeled differently. Ok they may be trying to explore the full spectrum of a trend, fair enough.

This year was funny because suddenly the trend was supposed to be 'no trends'. Whao...sounds very much like everyone was inspiration-dried out and hey, let's invent a new concept called 'no trends'. Blame it on the crisis. The last time we faced a major depression, they sucked a new concept out of the streets with the grunge.

Here is what I found in my delicious Mood book:

AW 2001 or 2

Leather
x Floaty dresses
x Raglan sleeves T-shirts with names of cities or well known areas (Brooklyn, Harlem)
x Camouflage
x Boot cut jeans
x Corduroy
x Patchwork/suede
x Embroidered jeans (fashion crime!)
x Slash necklines

SS 2003 or 2004

x Mini trench coats (GAP initiated)
x Vivid colours especially yellow and green
30's (nope, that one didn't take off until 2008)
x Vintage (now everything that is more than 2 years old is called 'vintage')
x Vintage bands t-shirts (Kiss, ACDC, David Bowies, Guns & Roses...)
x 80's revival (that one has been on and on since to my great despair)
x Oversized glasses or 'bug' sunglasses

AW 2003/2004

x Ultra long scarf with small stripes (GAP)
x Beige corduroy bags
x Oversize picture T-shirts
Birds, carnival, Moulin Rouge
BIker chic
Tweed trilbies
Boyish
x 60s revival
x Argyle patterns
x Zips, punk revival (whatever, we had that one again in 2008)
x Acid colours
High society
x Bardot jumper
Anna Sui 'Dolly Girl'
x Japanese prints
x Corduroy jackets
x Tights in funny colours (still 'on' in 2008) I have tons of these
x Courreges style dresses
x Satin dress a la Gucci
Middle-Age/Joan of Arc (failed miserably)

Other 2003 (AW2002/2003?)

x Prairie
Jumpsuits
x Parkas
x 70s shirts
x Shearling coats

Personally, I was that year obsessed with GREY



Sarah Jessica Parker for GAP in 2004, this campaign had a huge influence

AW 2004/2005

x Ugg boots
Tweed jackets
Equestrian (didn't work)
Purple
x Missoni lookalike jumper at M&S, chevrons
x Crochet belts
Bubble skirts (didnt' work)
Wild west (didnt' work)
Tartan/checks (worked later in 2007 2008)
x Wrap dresses
Leopard (as previously, worked but later)
x Ponchos (followed by an invasion of ponchos all over the UK)
x Hot metal (GAP bags)
x Blouse (especially the one with pussy bows)

AW 2005

Romeo and Juliet (don't ask me what that was)
x Fake fur (followed by an invasion etc.)
Embroidery
x Lace
x Military style (followed by an invasion etc.)/Gothic fairytale/Victoriana/Napoleonic/Aviator on the border of the overdose)
Tweed trousers
Ethnic/Folklore/Beatnik/Eastern countries
x Pompoms
Knit layers
x Kukui beads
x Waistcoat (thanks Kate Moss for bringing this from the deads)
x Customized handbag (appliques, charms)
Boudoir/Mademoiselle

The ones with the cross are the ones that were the most popular at the time.

SS 2006

x Navy stripes
x Polka dots
x Red gingham
x Shorts
White
x Trench coats (though it's totally a staple)
Pied de poule/Hound's tooth pattern
x Glitter/sequins
Braces
Dungarees
x Cowgirl (again! Also named 'prairie')
x Puff sleeves
Navy trousers (ie extra wide)
x Schoolgirl
Skull scarves (nothing new here Mr McQueen, there were huge in the early 90's)

On the streets in 2006 >> Metallic bags, ballerinas, grey skinnies (thanks again to Kate Moss), shrugs and more shrugs (with sequins), Marinieres, Fur collar parkas

I kind of stopped after that, that's a shame. Other things I remember but I can't date them:

Velvet tracksuits (Juicy Couture style) especially in pink
Empire line tops
Burberry patterns (but it's kind of cultural in Glasgow)
Tartan mini kilts
Slouch boots
Big hoop earrings
Jeans in boots
Metallic shoes
Cropped jackets, 3/4 sleeves, swing coats
Pink or yellow Dayglo tutus (yes they were girls wearing this!)
Denim mini skirt + black cropped tights combo

Some of my new pages on the Mood book>>>









I'm still in the process for the layout. It's not quite how I would like it to be. I'd need a proper A4 notebook and more base material. Maybe some texture, ribbons, wrapping papers... More coming soon...

In one my older posts, I talked about one of the greatest books about style, 'The Pocket Stylist' by Kendall Farr. I found out today that she will be releasing a new book this April. Still about style, it's this time aimed at women over 40. Age 40 always seems to strike the last hours of feminity and youth. Though I disagree with this and because people never want to believe my true age (they usually take 10 years off) I'm quite curious to find out how K.Farr handled the subject.



Getting hold is hard and painful. We've been conditioned so much to regard this as unacceptable we never really learned to accept it's a natural process and see beauty in older women positively. The other night, I was watching an interview of one our most famous actresses in France called Michele Morgan. She's 89 and I was amazed how beautiful she looked. I mean beauty exuding from the inside.

Genes are probably a big part in the growing old process. But there are controlable factors and you don't need to spend a lof of money in treatments that have very little effects if none.

1/ Protect your skin from the sun
2/ Keep your skin moisturized
3/ Get enough sleep

There are of course other controlable things such as taking regular physical activity, stop smoking, reduce alcohol consumption and overall having a healthy lifestyle. Number 2 will get more and more difficult with the time. The 3 I've mentioned are the ones I have personally and more specifically experienced as being effective.

1/ I have never been a fan of tanning even when tanning was BIG especially in the late 70s and 80's. As a point of comparison, my sister abused it on several occasions and sun damage showed pretty early despite her olive skin.

2/ I had a perfect skin until the age of 22 and for no obvious reason I gradually started to have acne. I don't remember using any special skincare routine up to that age and acne caused me a lot of problem later due to the treatments I was prescribed. I eventually got my solution when I started to use completely natural soaps and a mix of water mist topped with a few drops of Burts Bee's repair serum. The oil seems to lock the water in. It greatly improved my skin. At age 36 one fine Summer morning I woke up and realized that fine lines had appeared under my eyes when I was smiling. It really seemed to have appeared overnight, scary! The repair serum still helps however my skin now needs constant attention.

3/ When I'm really knackered towards the end of the afternoon, I sometimes take a 30/60' nap. I have noticed that everytime I do, my skin looks flawless and smooth as a baby bottom. This almost never happens during the night because I've always had a bad sleep with apparently sleep apnea too.



Twiggy, the personification of youth

Most of the people who assume I'm 10 years younger do because most of us have cliches about what a woman should look at a particular age. I honestly don't feel like I'm a nearly 40. I've never lied about my age and I doubt I ever will. When I see pictures of 'every day' women roughly my age, I do realize I'm different. I got IDed 3 times while I was in Scotland. Once to get into a club at age 31, a second time last year while buying a bottle of wine at M&S and the last time was about 2 months ago when I bought cigarettes! God know I may actually look 15 years younger if I didn't smoke...
But I have the feeling that this is what younger generations will experience as well. They will look younger than their age. It's all in the head up to a certain point. It has a lot to do on how much attention you pay to your general appearance and the way you dress. I don't condemn women who would go under surgery if that makes them feel better but there are still a lot of safe alternatives that requires little effort but without a doubt a lot of discipline.

Above is one of my several books about shoes and footwear that for once I took the time to read before going to sleep yesterday. It's more of a collector's book with price tags and very thorough description but for any shoe passionista, it's a must have.

At the end of the book there's section about shoe designer Howard Davis, an African-American who once worked for the Frenchissim Roger Vivier. Davis as a child, used to dismantle her sister's shoes and rebuild them with a new design (unfortunately there are no details about this unusual activity). While working for a department store, his shoe sketches drew the attention of the store's manager who recommended him to a big shoe manufacturer (Delman). Delman gave him the opportunity (so rare nowadays) to learn the ropes of the shoe business. And off he went!

The story is followed by an interview with Davis who cites 3 schools for anyone who would like to become a shoe designer: Parson's in NY (where he currently teaches), Cordwainers College in London and Ars Sutoria in Milan. Ah if it could be that simple. I had a look at the Cordwainers college a few years ago and it seemed so out of reach. My current situation makes the adventure impossible to take up no matter how I turn things around except maybe for a short Summer course. In France there is only ONE reputable school of shoe design, the Colbert Insistute. Unfortunately it is not as you'd think located in Paris but 350km away. I feel like I have petrol on one hand and no car on the other. I have thousands of shoe ideas and no means to make this real. It's both frustrating and depressing. I don't know why this vocation came in so late in my life. I'm convinced I'm not the only one. At least my musician friends have numerous virtual platforms to express themselves. But what about a trade that requires extreme technical knowledge? Tricky indeed.

I was 15 when I bought my first vintage shoes at a junk/antique fair. It was a pair of 1910's suede and leather boots with a row of mother-of-pearl buttons. At 15 1/2, I joined the Arts section at highschool. I was desperate to get into one of the highest-ranked schools of Arts in Paris. But being easily demotivated with no proper support from my Arts teacher or my parents, I miserably failed the tests. Anyway these Arts schools were not actual technical schools. It was such an 'old France' academic system, LOADS of theory and very little practice. If anything, I wanted to be neither a painter, neither an illustrator nor an interior designer. I would have needed something extra specific. Something that was at the time still regarded as education for the 'intelligently challenged' ones who were not able to pass the Baccalaureat. What a lot of bullshit. So much for the so called 'Egalite' in France...

One sure thing makes me laugh now. When I checked the website of this particular school I wanted to join 25 years ago, the educational body was complaining about young people to be technically skilled but creatively poor. You'd think it's nonsense but it's not. As much as the opposite is also true. And on the contrary to drawing, painting that are for the good ones an ability they're born with, shoe making requires techniques that can be taught and mastered. Once you've got the knowledge comes the creative part can be unleashed. So what good would have it been to join this school? None, I would have got bored and eventually dropped, I'm sure of this. On top of that, unless you're a Mozart, I can't see how you can have enough maturity at 15 especially now. It takes years to absorb creative material and develop its own style.

I haven't gave up my dream. If the only thing I can afford time and moneywise, then I'll eventually go to the Summer course at the LCF (London College of Fashion). I don't have the pretention to become a Vivier or a Ferragamo though if I ever managed to get into it, it'd give a sense to my life. I'm sure there's one thing other passionate people share is that sense of complete focus and energy burning when one works towards its passion. To be completely in it, work hard and get the priceless satisfaction to be in harmony with oneself.